Professional Beauty - Flip eBook Pages 51-92 (2025)

49 professionalbeauty.co.uk INTERVIEW Talking to… Millie Kendall The British Beauty Council chief executive and industry icon tells Ellen Cummings about the latest developments in policy, trends and raising the reputation of beauty ith over 30 years of experience in the beauty industry, in roles ranging from policy and marketing to writing and charity work, Millie Kendall is one of the industry’s strongest champions. Of course, one of Kendall’s greatest achievements is the launch of the British Beauty Council (BBCo) – an organisation founded to represent the needs of all sectors of the industry at government level. Less than half a decade since it was launched in 2018, the British Beauty Council has helped to change the standing of the industry and bring about much-needed changes, including playing a role in winning £500 million of Government-backed support during the Covid-19 pandemic, influencing the ban on botulinum toxin and fillers for under-18s, and publishing reports into diversity and inclusivity, sustainability and mental health.

50 professionalbeauty.co.uk INTERVIEW The council is continuing to liaise with the Government as the cost-of-living crisis takes its toll on beauty businesses. “The way we’re approaching it is looking at demand versus supply,” says Kendall. “What you can’t say to the Government is that it’s all doom and gloom because no government is going to give handouts. You have to provide proof that you are an industry with some potential for growth. So, what we need to do is combine the demand for services and look at the supply challenges the industry is facing and make a sound argument for why they should invest in our sector.” In September, the Government announced the Energy Bill Relief Scheme to help businesses, including those in the beauty market, to pay their bills as energy prices soar. A key area the council is focusing on is convincing the Government to maintain this support. Kendall explains, “In April, when the six months of the energy scheme is finished, the Government is going to go through a list of industries and assess which ones can have more help. What we’re trying to do right now is ensure beauty is somewhere at the top, mainly because the energy consumption of beauty businesses is quite high.” The council is also working with the Government on the future of aesthetics regulation. The Health and Care Act 2022 gave the Government power to implement a licensing scheme for nonsurgical cosmetic procedures, but the scope has not yet been finalised. While there isn’t yet clarity on what procedures will be included and when this will take effect, Kendall says, “It will probably cover more than just injectables. I believe that most of the treatments carried out in Level 7 will be included, or the general consensus is that they should be. Legislation is a very long process, so it’s not going to happen overnight; I think it’ll be about a two-year process.” Supporting therapists Although BBCo supports all sectors of the industry, it also works hard to specifically support beauty therapists. Kendall explains, “We work very closely with all of the trade bodies and advocate on beauty therapists’ behalf. The trade bodies provide certain services to their members and we meet with them regularly to talk about the things we can do to support therapists on the ground.” The key area where Kendall believes BBCo particularly supports therapists is in helping them be heard and respected. She explains, “Firstly, we’ve given them a voice and raised the reputation of the sector, and we’ve really allowed those businesses, business owners, self-employed people and the workforce itself to be proud of what they do. Telling people that you work for an industry that generates £30 billion for Britain’s GDP is something to be proud of. I feel like for a long time we were looked down on, and I don’t think that’s the case anymore at government level. “Regulation was on my to-do list when we first started the British Beauty Council, but I didn’t think we’d get anywhere near regulation for at least 10 years. But the fact that we are soon going to be licensed and regulated is something to be proud of because it gives us a bit more power and KEY DATES Awarded an MBE for services to the cosmetics industry Moves to the US and works for Bumble & Bumble and Shu Uemura Co-founds cosmetics brand Ruby & Millie 1986 1998 2007 Kendall outlining the British Beauty Council’s roadmap in June 2022 Co-founds PR agency Brandstand Communications Awarded an OBE for services to the hair and beauty industry Launches the British Beauty Council Publishes the Value of Beauty industry report 2015 2018 2019 2022

51 professionalbeauty.co.uk INTERVIEW helps to raise the reputation of the sector.” Looking to the future, the British Beauty Council is focusing on three key pillars for its work: talent, growth, and environmental, social and governance (ESG). Alongside her work with BBCo, Kendall also contributes to the beauty industry in other ways – and the area closest to her heart is charity work. “I’m a trustee of Haircuts 4 Homeless, I’m on the advisory board of Beauty Backed, and I work with a charity which educates people on spotting the signs of skin cancer. I try to give as much of my time as I can,” she says. The work doesn’t end there, though. “I also co-own a PR agency, so I understand what it’s like for small business owners,” Kendall says. “I have staff and do payroll, and I think it’s always good to keep your foot in the door in that kind of business so that you have perspective over what’s going on outside the policy stuff.” Trend focus The PR company also allows Kendall to keep up with trends in the industry, and she says the “two huge things” coming up often in conversation at the moment are supplements and the microbiome. “I think microbiome is really interesting,” she comments. “We have our own bacteria in our body and it’s there for a reason. When you’re buying products, I would put more thought into what you’re buying, and I would be more conscious of how often you wash your hair, body and face because we can strip our body of what it needs.” In terms of beauty treatment trends, does Kendall have a favourite? “I’m actually quite low maintenance!”, she says. “There are different people I go to for different things, depending on what I’m in the mood for. Different facialists have different techniques. “Su-Man Hsu is amazing; she’s so strong, so that massage is mind blowing. Sarah Bradden does a facial with acupuncture and reflexology, and that is probably one of my favourites in terms of pleasure, I find it really emotional. Then you’ve got Jasmina Vico who does microneedling and Teresa Tarmey who does laser, and obviously lovely Dija Ayodele who does pretty much all of the above.” From the way Kendall talks about her fellow beauty professionals, it’s clear the industry’s community is her real passion. Indeed, when asked about what she loves most about the sector, Kendall responds with an emphatic, “Oh my god, the people! They’re the best people ever.” The value of beauty Kendall’s work in supporting the industry has been recognised at one of the highest levels, with her awarded an MBE in 2007 and an OBE in 2022. While the first award was personally given by the late Queen, Kendall’s OBE ceremony was overseen by the Princess Royal, who shared words of support for the beauty industry. Kendall recalls, “Princess Anne said to me, ‘Beauty is a very popular industry, isn’t it? I talk to colleges all the time and there’s always young people that want to get into beauty’.” She adds, “That’s when you get quite excited about working in an industry that the Royal Family are aware of as being an industry that young people are interested in. It was really cool – I’m never usually at a loss for words but at that point I didn’t know what to say!” This pride in the sector is something Kendall wants to encourage all beauty therapists to feel and translate to their everyday work. “Know your worth,” she says. “Sometimes, we get a little afraid, because of the cost-of-living crisis, about pricing. We need to be very aware of not downgrading our pricing to the point of it being a detriment to our business, so know your worth and price yourself properly. Your clients will stick with you if you’re good at what you do – stick to your guns.” TELLING PEOPLE that you WORK for an INDUSTRY that generates £30 BILLION for BRITAIN’S GDP is something to be PROUD OF Kendall receiving her OBE alongside British Beauty Council’s Helena Grzesk INSTAGRAM/@BRITISHBEAUTYCOUNCIL

Find out what a CACI Synergy+ System can do for your business 020 8731 5678 [emailprotected] www.cacibeauty.com

SYNERGY+ The complete treatment solution for your aesthetic business S. P. E . D O R B I T A L A B R A D E R W R I N K L E C O M B ULTRASONIC ACTUATOR ® QUAD PROBES INCLUDING: FACIAL TONING JOWL LIFTING LINES / WRINKLES EYE BAGS SKIN HYDRATION SKIN PEELING ACNE / BLEMISHES STRETCH MARKS SCARRING NECK TREATMENTS CELLULITE HAND TREATMENTS 110 Treatment Programs 1 Device 4 Unique technologies S.P.E.D® Microcurrent Quad action microcurrent toning combined with simultaneous LED light therapy. Orbital Skin Resurfacing Crystal free dermabrasion combined with simultaneous LED light therapy. Wrinkle Reduction Collagen stimulating waves combined with simultaneous LED light therapy. Ultrasonic Rejuvenation Piezoelectric dermal vibrations combined with simultaneous ultrasound technology.

54 professionalbeauty.co.uk Aesthetic technologies are increasingly being used to replicate the effects of invasive treatments with almost no downtime. Kezia Parkins explores the latest developments under the skin reatments don’t always need to be invasive to get great aesthetic results. While some have considered the surgical face lift as the gold standard for achieving dramatic rejuvenation since the 1960s, in recent years, countless devices have come to market promising to tone, tighten, resurface and revitalise, many of which don’t even pierce the skin. According to a report published by Growth Plus Reports, the global aesthetic devices market is expected to grow to $22.33 billion (£20.19bn) by 2030 and is being driven by increased awareness, innovation and social media influence. AESTHETIC DEVICES

55 professionalbeauty.co.uk AESTHETIC DEVICES A facelift is often still the best treatment for those with significant laxity of the face and neck tissues, but in the right candidates, non-invasive interventions can give excellent results. “The results are different, but non-invasive devices can achieve a significant lift to the skin of the face and neck with little to no downtime,” says Dr Sophie Shotter, medical director and founder of Illuminate Clinics. Age-old problem Ageing is a natural process, but it’s one many are seeking to slow. Ageing is characterised by decreasing skin elasticity resulting in thinning of the epidermal and dermal skin layers leading to fine lines, wrinkles, tone and skin texture issues. Plastic surgery, and minimally invasive treatments such as dermal fillers and anti-wrinkle injections, are on the rise. However, these come with significant risks by changing the structural integrity of the face, adding product, removing tissue or freezing muscles rather than focusing on the cause of the ageing process – loss of collagen. “With surgery, you have one treatment and get an instant results,” says Dr Samantha Hills, clinical director at Lynton Lasers. “With non-invasive devices you won’t get the same degree of tightening, but you can get very close.” She adds that while non-invasive devices tend to involve more treatments, they are lower risk and less expensive. “It depends on what you’re trying to achieve. I remember speaking to someone who had a facelift and was very happy with the results but her concern was that she still had ‘old lady skin’,” she recalls. “Surgery didn’t do anything to improve the texture, colour or tone of her skin. For that side of rejuvenation, you need a non-surgical intervention.” Radiofrequency for rejuvenation Radiofrequency (RF) is a technology increasingly used to treat skin laxity by increasing tissue temperature. The aim of this non-invasive technique is to induce thermal damage, stimulating neocollagenesis in the deep layers of the skin. Radiofrequency penetrates to the subcutaneous layers, producing an exothermic reaction. The physiological effects on the dermis include tightening, firming and brightening. This is thanks to the thermal reaction that causes collagen to contract, promoting collagen synthesis and tightening the underlying skin structures without damaging the top layer. The technology has increased in popularity in recent years since celebrities like Kim Kardashian and Victoria and Daid Beckham spoke out about its benefits. In combination Radiofrequency in combination with microneedling (RFM) is one of the up-and-coming solutions being lauded for the ultimate “non- surgical face lift”. Microneedling on its own involves pricking the skin with tiny sterilised needles. These small wounds cause your body to make more collagen and elastin, which heal skin and help it look younger. Radiofrequency microneedling combines both technologies for ultimate collagen-producing power. Microneedling encourages collagen production superficially while RF goes much deeper to boost this n production, creating faster and more dramatic results that improve over time. The union of these two techniques helps to lift, firm and tighten the skin, reduce wrinkles, shrink pores and even minimise acne scars and other blemishes. Radiofrequency microneedling can offer similar results to ablative laser procedures but with significantly less discomfort and downtime. It can also be used as a preventative and to avoid even more invasive procedures such as surgery when laxity is not severe. Devices such as Lynton’s Focus Dual creates controlled trauma that boosts production of collagen and elastin. The results are firmer, tighter, smoother, more lifted and hydrated skin. “It’s all about prevention and remodelling that collagen so that its better quality,” says Dr Hills. “There’s lots of technologies that can plump the skin and stimulate collagen such as RF and ablative lasers. But if you really want to tighten as you would with a facelift or threads, you need to target the SMAS [superficial musculoaponeurotic system] layer.” High-intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU) can be added to cause reversible damage to the far deeper SMAS layer of the skin, which then helps tighten and pull, especially in the jowls and around the eyes. By combining HIFU with RFM, results can be maximised at every layer. “A facelift is still going to give the most dramatic results. But if your client is not ready for that step, or can’t afford the downtime, risk or financial expense, then HIFU is a really good option,” says Dr Hills. Sofwave is another device that uses ultrasound to target ageing. Sofwave harnesses Synchronous Ultrasound Parallel Beam (SUPERB) technology to precisely target the depth of wrinkles – 1.5mm below the skin’s surface. Each pulse delivers seven parallel cylinders of energy to heat the tissue to between 60 and 70ºC, stimulating fibroblasts and new collagen to be produced. Meanwhile, Sofcool, an integrated cooling mechanism, protects the uppermost skin layer. The Sofwave device and RFM device, Profound RF, are Dr Shotter’s go-to non-surgical options. “With these devices we can achieve a significant lift to the skin of the face and neck with little to no downtime,” she says. “We can further enhance these results by combining with fillers, for example, to restore volume loss and support the facial structure.” Before and two weeks after RF microneedling and HIFU treatment with Lynton Focus Dual at Clinic 10

56 professionalbeauty.co.uk AESTHETIC DEVICES LED light therapy is another non-invasive technology that can be added into the mix to boost the results of anti-ageing facials. The most scientifically supported wavelengths in LED therapy are blue, red and near infrared, explains Celluma VP brand manager Denise Ryan. “Wavelengths emit particles of light energy called photons which are absorbed by cells in the dermal and subcutaneous layers of the skin, resulting in a cascade of beneficial metabolic events,” she adds. “The downstream results are an increase in cell proliferation, cell mitosis, RNA and DNA synthesis and protein synthesis, leading to improved skin tone, texture, and quality.” For acne, LED light therapy works by killing acne-causing bacteria at the source – deep beneath the skin’s surface. Blue and red-light therapies can be used in tandem to get the benefits of both. Ryan says the technology is a great add-on to build into a client’s bespoke facial between the toning and serum stage for both acne and anti-ageing. The CACI Synergy+ system also uses LED but combines this with microcurrent. It uses pulsed LED light with ultra-low frequency microcurrent and a digital waveform to provide skin rejuvenation and facial toning. Non-invasive on the go If you are a mobile therapist or are short on space, you can still offer the benefits of some of these technologies thanks to handheld devices. These are increasing in popularity thanks to famous faces such as Sharon Stone, who posted a video of her glam team using a device dubbed “The Magic Wand” to prep her for Cannes Film Festival and get an instant lift. Opatra’s Dermasonic II, for example, harnesses RF and red, blue and green LED light therapy. Green light is great for evening skin tone by reducing pigmentation. Additional heat therapy helps boost circulation and product absorption while minimising the look of fine lines and assisting with easing muscle tension, making the device great for red-carpet-ready results. What about injectables? We’ve covered a hoard of non-invasive technologies that can tighten and improve the skin’s texture and cellular quality but what about alternatives to the explosively popular (and largely unregulated) practice of injectibles? CACI Trainer Charlotte Richardson, says CACI’s Wrinkle Comb can be used as a needleless alternative to lip filler. “It plumps up the lip line and softens any lines. Its specific wavelengths of light and electrical high-frequency stimulation cause slight tissue inflammation – this helps to plump out deep lines and trigger tissue repair and healing,” she explains. In regards to anti-wrinkle and collagen injections Richardson says a needle-free alternative is CACI Wrinkle Revolution. Boosting income Non-invasive devices not only achieve excellent results, but they can open doors to a whole new world of treatments for beauty therapists because many do not require a medical practitioner to operate them. This can enable salons to increase and diversify income by adding new and popular non-invasive ways to turn back the clock. However, explains Dr Hills, many non-invasive devices are likely to fall under the scope of the new regulation when it is brought in because they pierce and heat the skin. As it stands, it is still uncertain how the industry will be regulated once licenses for cosmetic procedures are introduced (see page 12). Prevention over cure We are currently in the age of preventative and precision medicine, and these ideologies are crossing over to skincare and becoming increasingly important to clients. Many non-invasive devices focus on boosting collagen and improving the structural integrity of skin, helping to prevent ageing rather than freezing it in time with injections. Therefore, many of these technologies are suitable for clients of all ages and genders. “We’re predominantly seeing those in their 40s and 50s having these treatments. We typically see younger clients for skin texture improvement,” explains Dr Hills. “Of course, you continue to age but you have improved the structure of the skin – if you got rid of acne scarring, for example, it’s not going to come back, whereas fillers have a time limit.” Plus, as both Dr Hills and Richardson say, results with non-invasive devices can appear a lot more natural, a look that becoming increasingly soughtafter. Dr Shotter adds, “I always urge people to consider non-surgical options, although for me surgery and non-surgical treatments often go hand in hand. The key is consultation – understanding the patient’s desires, expectations and lifestyle will help plan an optimal treatment journey for them.” If you REALLYWANT TO TIGHTEN as you WOULD WITH a facelift or threads, you need to target THE SMAS LAYER Before and six months after Sofwave treatment with Michael Gold, MD

Venus Viva The Viva RF device has two radiofrequency applicators. One is MP2 multipolar RF for skin tightening, which has an inbuilt thermal sensor to get real-time thermal feedback. A course of six to eight is recommended and a quarterly top-up to maintain results. The other applicator is nano fractional RF, which delivers results on textural irregularities including acne scarring and enlarged pores. Trade: £33,000 020 8748 2221 venusconcept.com Zemits Crystal Frax This device provides long-lasting skin tightening for all skin types. With deep-stimulating nano-electrodes, fractional RF provides controlled dermal damage and boosts further neocollagenesis. The device allows deep skin rejuvenation without impacting the skin’s surface as the multiple smooth RF pins cause thermal stress to the dermis in microscopic, targeted zones. The intact surrounding tissue helps increase the skin’s recovery process. Crystal Frax delivers RF energy in pulsating and continuous modes for better results within a shorter treatment session than traditional bipolar RF. Trade: £2,990 020 4532 5922 zemits.co.uk fit Tight Some of the best radiofrequency devices for achieving skin-tightening and anti-ageing results for the face Lynton Focus Dual Focus Dual has two technologies for nonsurgical skin lifting, firming and tightening of the face and body: radiofrequency microneedling (RFM) and high intensity focused ultrasound (HIFU). Heat is targeted directly to the deepest layers of the skin, while the upper skin remains intact, resulting in almost no downtime. Varying needle depths, RF settings and HIFU focal depths allow the skin to be treated at every layer, offering customisation. Its ability to reach the superficial musculoaponeurotic system (SMAS) layer offers enhanced results, since this is the layer of skin tightened by plastic surgeons during cosmetic surgery. Price on application 01477 536977 lynton.co.uk Opatra Dermisonic II Opatra’s non-invasive Dermisonic II helps lift, re-contour and improve the overall appearance of skin for a younger, firmer look. The five-in-one handheld device with changeable skin rejuvenating treatments delivers a targeted combination of red, blue and green LED light to work beneath the surface of the skin. In synergy with vibration, heat therapy and RF, the device helps improve skin hydration and supports healthy skin function with regular use. It can be used in a clinic, salon or by clients at home. Trade: £2,999 020 7998 5708 opatra.com 58 professionalbeauty.co.uk AESTHETIC DEVICES

59 professionalbeauty.co.uk AESTHETIC DEVICES 3D Aesthetics 3D Dermaforce 3D Dermaforce uses radiofrequency (RF) microneedling to stimulate the body’s natural healing process to encourage collagen production in the dermis resulting in rejuvenated and tightened skin. The RF energy is delivered through the insulated needles, allowing precise delivery to the dermis while protecting the epidermis. The RF wave penetrates the basal melanocyte barrier, heating collagen fibres in the dermis to 55–65ºC, increasing cell turnover. Trade: £20,000. Save up to 40% and pay nothing for six months 01788 550440 3d-aesthetics.co.uk Lumenis NuEra Tight with FocalRF NuEra Tight, powered by FocalRF technology, uses multiple RF frequencies, enabling use for several indications, skin conditions and body areas in the same session. Safe and effective with no downtime, this non-invasive treatment delivers natural-looking, long-lasting results and feels like a hot stone massage. With high frequencies and precise temperature control, NuEra Tight can stimulate the activity of fibroblasts and enhance blood flow. This creates an immediate smoothing effect that will keep improving as the body’s healing mechanism generates new collagen production, improving signs of sagging skin and wrinkles. Price on application 020 4536 5418 lumenis.co.uk BTL Exilis Ultra 360 System Exilis Ultra360 is the third generation of BTL’s system for skin tightening and deeper fat reduction for the face and body. The FDA-cleared device combines monopolar radiofrequency and ultrasound and has been clinically proven to achieve a 35% reduction in skin laxity and 42% wrinkle reduction, 19% increase in skin density and an improvement in soft cellulite. On the face it is particularly effective for tightening around the eyes and for lifting the jawline and neck areas. It reaches therapeutic temperatures quickly, meaning treatment time is short. Trade: from £35,000 01782 579060 btlnet.com Cynosure Potenza By combining microneedling and RF, Potenza offers faster and stronger results than using just one technology at a time. Potenza can treat enlarged pore size, scarring, pigmentation, stretch marks, loss of elasticity, rough skin, active acne, acne scarring and general skin rejuvenation. The device is customisable and safe to use on all skin types and colours. There is a two- to three-day period of downtime where the client’s skin may feel dry and have redness. Potenza treatments are recommended four to six weeks apart. Price on application 01628 522252 cynosureuk.com

62 professionalbeauty.co.uk TIKTOK TRUTHS ontent creators on TikTok are raving about skin cycling – a new approach to skincare where you rotate products to target different concerns without overloading the skin with conflicting ingredients and actives in one go. As with many TikTok trends, the concept of skin cycling is not entirely new. “Even though this routine has now a viral name, it is what we always recommend our clients to do, especially if they are beginners to skincare actives or have no particular skin concerns that need ongoing treatment,” says Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, skincare formulator and founder of Skin Masterclass. How does skin cycling work? “It’s also important to note that skin cycling is the name of the technique given to the method of application. This means there isn’t a skincare product that your client needs to purposefully buy in addition to what they already have,” explains Yilmaz. “Skin cycling is a rotational skincare routine that alternates between applying active ingredients one night and then allowing the skin to recover and rest the next,” adds dermatologist Dr Derrick Phillips. “The reason skin cycling is becoming more popular is due to its design to improve the efficacy of active ingredients and to help minimise any irritation by cycling through active and inactive products.” What are the benefits of skin cycling? For those beginning to take skincare a bit more seriously, skin cycling is the perfect way to begin building a routine. “Skin cycling is a really simple way for a consumer to use active ingredients like salicylic acid, glycolic acid or even retinol in a clear way, which could ensure beneficial use without the confusion and the potential sensitisation that may be caused by overuse,” explains Jon-Paul Hoy, lead educator for Lesielle UK. “If someone is unsure of how to use these active skincare options, then skin cycling could be a great solution as it could keep the steps separated and slightly more understandable for daily use.” The recovery days provided by skin cycling are for giving the skin time to repair and can also help to indicate any sensitivity caused by products and ingredients reacting to the skin differently to how they should. “This type of routine works by allowing a better tolerance and compliance with the use of ingredients With a growing number of TikTok beauty gurus speaking out about how “skin cycling” has transformed their skin, Lollie Hancock asks the experts whether this approach works Does skin cycling work?

63 professionalbeauty.co.uk TIKTOK TRUTHS that are known to be strong; especially when they are made to powerfully improve the appearance of skin concerns and the function of the skin over time,” adds Dr Phillips. “The recovery days in between allow the skin to repair itself from some of the side effects known to take place from these actives, such as redness, peeling and burning.” Does one routine work for everyone? We already know there is no one-size-fits-all solution when it comes to skin health, but the beauty of skin cycling is how adaptable it can be to individual needs. “Skin cycling can benefit most skin types when the correct products are chosen. It may not be suitable for certain skins though, such as highly sensitive skins that cannot tolerate retinoids,” says Dr Phillips. As with all changes to skin routines, it’s important that your clients consult you before adding in actives, especially if they have active concerns such as acne and scarring. “When I am forming my skincare routines with my clients, I generally suggest the cycle of one night acid serum, one night retinoid serum and one night for recovery,” shares Yilmaz. “If the client can tolerate the acids and retinoids on alternating nights without any skin sensitisation, you can recommend they don’t take a break in between, and ensure they are adding a ceramide and peptide, and an emollient-rich moisturiser on top of their serums.” Dr Phillips agrees that your clients should speak to you before adopting this routine, sharing that “your client can adjust based on their skin needs and skin type”. For example, if they suffer from rosacea, they may benefit from doing it for five nights, and if they have oily or acne-prone skin, they might benefit from doing it only for three nights. “It can all depend on your skin type, and this is where speaking to you comes into play,” adds Dr Phillips. How should you educate clients? Educating your clients is important, especially if they’re using retinoids and other strong active ingredients. “Listening to clients is the most critical part. Knowing what their morning routine is and understanding their habits and preferences is key,” says Hoy. “Sharing skincare knowledge is a fundamental way to empower clients. Skin cycling could appeal to many due to the simplicity of keeping active ingredients to certain days and then skin recovery on others.” The opportunities to educate clients go beyond the treatment room, with Hoy adding, “The information can be shared in many ways, depending on the therapist’s knowledge or salon space, such as event evenings to play and learn, creating a daily social media post with a simple message, communication through active conversations, and having a key product focus daily or weekly.” With skin cycling, the most important thing to educate clients about is which ingredients should be used together, and, more importantly, which shouldn’t, as Dr Phillips shares below. COMBINATIONS TO AVOID • Vitamin C and AHAs (used at the same time) • Vitamin C and retinoids • Retinoids, AHAs and benzoyl peroxide • AHAs and niacinamide COMBINATIONS TO RECOMMEND • Retinoids and glycerin • Retinoids and hyaluronic acid • Vitamin C and vitamin E • Vitamin C and folic acid Combinations The reason SKIN CYCLING is becoming more POPULAR is due to its design to IMPROVE the EFFICACY of active ingredients and HELP minimise IRRITATION

64 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH REVIEW Reuniting the industry rofessional Beauty North returned to Manchester on September 25-26, bringing together 9,883 professionals from the beauty and aesthetics industry for two days of learning, networking, competing and discovering the latest trends. The event hosted key exhibitors from all areas of the beauty industry, including skincare, aesthetic devices, nails, make-up, lashes, waxing, spa, tanning and more as the brands showcased their latest product launches and demonstrated their newest innovations. “It’s lovely to be back at PB North after three years,” said visitor Gemma Holt, who owns Lily’s Beauty Salon in Shropshire. “There’s nowhere else you can get every single brand in one place.” Exhibitors and visitors alike commented that the show had a professional feel, with business owners and therapists visiting with a purpose to meet suppliers and expand their treatment offering, as well as to expand their industry knowledge and contacts. “We’ve had a lot of talks with people. Good quality, I have to say,” commented 3D Aesthetics managing director Roy Cowley. “It’s been a phenomenal success. A lot of people have signed up for deals. It’s proven to be an extremely good show.” Kirsty Jones, business development manager for Guinot UK and Ireland, added, “It’s been non-stop. We’ve met a lot of amazing people and had lots of interesting conversations.” Charles Mills, head of operations at Gelida Medica, said, “We’ve made a lot of new connections, including a lot of people who are starting new businesses.” Latest launches Many brands chose PB North as the launchpad for their new products and equipment. 3D Aesthetics launched its personalised skincare brand Lesielle, for example, while Image Skincare, Janssen, Dibi Milano and many others launched their Christmas collections. Image Skincare business development manager Clare Antcliffe said, “The reception has been fantastic. I’ve seen so many new faces here and we’ve generated a lot of new leads.” Zemits launched two new LED treatments, Oxygen LED After a three-year hiatus, PB North returned to Manchester on September 25-26, reuniting the northern beauty industry for two days of launches, education, networking and competitions

65 professionalbeauty.co.uk how to take their business to the next level. From Skin Professionals UK sharing why skin consultations are so important, to business coach Kris Trinity giving insight into how targeted ads on social media can double your sales, the sessions provided those who attended with a wealth of knowledge, tips, and tricks they otherwise wouldn’t have access to. Special thanks to the stage hosts – session tech and educator Kirsty Meakin, business coach Philip Elder and aesthetic practitioner and educator Andrew Hansford – all of whom were on hand to ensure visitors got the most out of their sessions, as well as stage sponsors Gelida Medica and the NHBF. Nurse practitioner Michelle Worthington, who runs Michelle Worthington Aesthetic Health, said, “It’s great to come and meet likeminded business people, see what’s new to the market and what you can add to your business to make it the best it can be. I also particularly came to see the talks on the Skin & Advanced Treatments stage.” Trainee beauty therapist Hafsa Qureshi added, “I booked in for some of the education sessions because I’m finding out what’s out there. It’s LOVELY to be back at PB NORTH after three years. There’s NOWHERE ELSE you can get EVERY single BRAND in ONE PLACE and Hydro LED. Director Ulyana Danyleyko said, “The show was brilliant. I haven’t stopped talking. We’ve met so many excited therapists. The beauty industry is about to blow up with all of the new exciting technology. Everyone is so passionate and interested to find out more.” Marcus Adshead, managing director at Sculpt Pro, said the event had been “a huge success”, adding, “We’ve launched two new devices, the CoolShaping 2 and HydraTouch H2, and will be back next year on March 5-6 at PB London.” Kimberly David, owner of Etre’Belle Beauty Clinic in Halifax, commented, “I’ve had my salon now for 20 years, and I like to come to PB North every year to see what’s the next big thing, and network with other salon owners. I’m interested in seeing what’s new, and what’s out there.” Strong education PB North brought some of the industry’s leading experts to Manchester to deliver exclusive education sessions across three action-packed live stages: Trends & Techniques, Skin & Advanced Treatments, and Business & Digital Skills, allowing visitors to brush up on their knowledge and learn

66 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH REVIEW Professional Beauty North will be back at Manchester Central on September 24-25, 2023. Register your interest now at professionalbeauty.co.uk/north DEFINITELY come to the SHOW – even if you’re COMING on your own. It’s GOOD to MEET NEW people, see what BRANDS are out there and GET INSPIRATION professionals highlighted the industry’s shift towards more tech-led and results-driven treatments and allowed visitors to learn how these brands can aid them in taking their business to the next level. Darren Wood, marketing director of HydraFacial, said, “Having the Professional Beauty and Aesthetic Medicine shows running alongside one another worked really well. We saw some great people crossing over from the PB side of the show, at the higher end of the market.” Successful return Speaking on the success of PB North’s return, Mark Moloney, managing director of the Professional Beauty Group, commented “After three years, it was great to be back at Manchester Central; we’re building the event back up sure and strong, ensuring the ‘professional’ in Professional Beauty means something. “The show looked great and had a wide selection of brands with something for everyone including skincare, aesthetic devices, nails, waxing and lashes, and attendance was positive at 9,883. “It’s very encouraging but plans are already underway to do more – more training, more networking, and more exhibitors, which the team and I are focused on delivering for 2023. Thank you to everybody who came or exhibited over the weekend, it was really good to see you.” Skincare and aromatherapy brand Eve Taylor have exhibited at the show for many years, and brand and education manager Matt Taylor said, “We keep coming back because Professional Beauty always puts on a great show, there’s always great footfall and a great crowd of people to meet and talk to.” “I’d say to people definitely come to the show – even if you’re coming on your own. It’s good to meet new people, see what brands are out there and get inspiration.” New for nails There was a huge buzz around nail stands including Glitterbels, INK London, new brand Dali Artistic, and Gelish distributor the Georgie Smedley Group, whose director Jazz Christodoulou commented, “We’re based in the South so it’s really nice to see some of our customers from up North in person, and just to interact and give them a chance to see our products and experience them for themselves.” INK London’s educator Simone Radley added, “It’s been buzzing. We got to meet people we wouldn’t necessarily get to meet normally – they can come and see the products in the flesh, which is fantastic because, when it’s done online, they don’t get that opportunity.” Nail technician Sarah Kay, who travelled from Ireland to attend PB North, said “I had a great time at the show and have just registered for Professional Beauty and Hair Ireland in November.” The show also saw the return of PB’s Nail Competitions, in association with the Federation of Nail Professionals, with nail techs and students competing in seven categories. Turn to page 72 to see who won. Aesthetic crossover The Aesthetic Medicine North show ran alongside PB North at Manchester Central, allowing visitors to access aesthetic and technology-focused brands such as HydraFacial, 3D Aesthetics, Opatra, Endospheres and more. The reception given to aesthetic brands by beauty

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-6 MARCH 2023 WHAT'S ON FOR COLLEGES COLLEGE BEAUTY JOURNEY Meet the brands that want to see you at the show NAIL & MAKE-UP COMPETITIONS Show off your creativity and raise your profile SUBSIDISED COACH HIRE We’ve partnered with VTCT to offer 50% off coach hire (up to £300) Register your interest for free tickets professionalbeauty.co.uk/London23 Entrance policy: Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Management reserves the right to request proof of age from individuals who look under 14 and refuse entry if this is not provided. No exceptions will be made.

68 professionalbeauty.co.uk PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NORTH REVIEW Top nail talent Some of the best nail techs in the business battled it out in Manchester on September 25–26 at the Professional Beauty North Nail Competition 2022. Here’s who won he Nail Competition at Professional Beauty North saw techs meet and show off their skills in six exciting categories over two days. Once again, Professional Beauty collaborated with industry associationThe Federation of Nail Professionals(FNP) on the competition, with Jacqueline O’Sullivan and Sean O’Sullivan leading the event as competition directors. LEARN A SKILL Winner: Octavia Smith (132 points) 2nd: Alice Atkinson (119 points) 3rd: Michelle Harding (113 points) COMPETITION NAIL Winner: Dominika Jedrzejczak (217 points) 2nd: Octavia Smith (203points) 3rd: Gemma McCarthy (181 points) INSTANAIL PHOTOGRAPHIC Theme: mythical creatures & worlds Winner: Vanessa Armitage (54 points) 2nd: Gemma Dawson (46.5 points) 3rd: Danielle Brindley (46 points) Voters’ Choice: Gemma Dawson (204 votes) GEL POLISH Winner: Gemma McCarthy (205 points) 2nd: Dominika Jedrzejczak (184points) SALON NAIL Winner: Octavia Smith (200 points) 2nd: Dominika Jedrzejczak (193 points) 3rd: Gemma McCarthy (149 points) NORTH NAIL CHAMPION Winner:Octavia Smith (accumulated 8 points) CATWALK SHOWCASE Theme: mythical creatures & worlds Winner: Danielle Brindley (51 points) 2nd: Michelle Harding (50 points) 3rd: Tina Li (49 points) THANK YOU TO THE JUDGES Hazel Dixon, Zsuzsanna Fecsik, Alex Fox, Amie Heary, Kirsty Meakin, Angela Metcalfe, Mandy Rainford-Jones, Andrea Rimmer and Clare Woodcock and also to FNP president Marian Newman for support on the organisation. THE NEXT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY NAIL COMPETITION WILL RUN AT PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY LONDON AT EXCEL, MARCH 5–6. JOIN THE “FEDERATION OF NAIL PROFESSIONALS & PRO BEAUTY COMPETITION GROUP” ON FACEBOOK FOR ALL THE UPDATES

LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-6 MARCH 2023 GET READY TO COMPETE Be the first one to know when entries open professionalbeauty.co.uk/London23 Entrance policy: Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Management reserves the right to request proof of age from individuals who look under 14 and refuse entry if this is not provided. No exceptions will be made. “This is the best way of challenging the mind, challenging your creativity and getting your name out there.” Kirsty Meakin “It’s just about being really creative and exposed to everyone in the industry.” Lanslondon NAILS MAKE-UP

70 professionalbeauty.co.uk MONEY-SAVINGS TIPS he cost-of-living crisis is looming over the heads of many business owners as the UK faces rising bills, inflation and uncertainty about how to cover these costs. To help you know what to expect and understand where you can make easy cuts to save money, Hollie Power, co-founder of Salonology, and salon business expert Liz McKeon have shared their top tips and tricks to get through this difficult time. Know your numbers It’s easy to focus on the amount coming into your bank, but it’s extremely important to know exactly what your outgoings are as well. “When prices go up, it’s time for a good old deep dive into your bank statements,” advises Power. “While we always want to keep a sharp focus on what’s coming into our banks and work on increasing that number, we can also take a good look at what’s going out.” Remember that, as much as your clients are providing you with business, you’re also providing your suppliers and the brands you use within your salon with business as well. Your relationship with product houses should be mutually beneficial. “Despite prices rising, most companies still want your business and would be willing to renegotiate terms, interests and costs,” explains Power. Taking the time to go through your statements can be daunting, especially if you’ve been avoiding looking at the numbers, but it’s important to know exactly what is going on. “Allocate an afternoon, print your bank statements for the last 12 months and work through them, item by item,” suggests Power. “Can you rethink suppliers? Are you spending too much on last-minute orders when a more organised stock management system could avoid it? With the cost-of-living crisis threatening beauty businesses across the UK, Lollie Hancock Lollie Hancock asks the experts their top tips for cutting costs as we head into winter Save your salon money

71 professionalbeauty.co.uk MONEY-SAVINGS TIPS “By knowing what is coming out, we can be more in control and more prepared for the months ahead.” Review your marketing Marketing is essential to running a business – especially in times when you need more clients to help stay afloat. “No matter what is happening in the economy, you cannot afford to stop marketing,” explains McKeon. Marketing can be expensive, but McKeon points out that you can streamline what you’re advertising to make your marketing investments more cost effective. “Establish your unique selling point and market this like crazy,” she suggests. “Get strategic about your marketing activities so it doesn’t cost a lot but becomes more lead generation than brand awareness and drives new clients into your business.” Don’t forget to use your team to market your company as well – no one knows your business better than them. “Train all team members to increase conversions with all new clients, so they want to come back to your business more often for all your services and products,” adds McKeon. Get your team on board Your team can help in more ways than just through marketing the business to clients. “If you have a team, make them aware of how these price hikes impact your business,” says Power, but she adds that the conversation doesn’t have to be a negative one. “Instead of making ‘turn the lights off’ sound like a chore, make it a challenge. Create an eco-warrior mentality where the team are encouraged to recycle where they can, be aware of water and electricity usage and take responsibility for their own spaces,” she suggests. “Crown a team member the ‘Eco Specialist’ and get them to take responsibility for staying on top of it in a fun and different way.”

72 professionalbeauty.co.uk Instead of stopping some of the extras you offer your clients to make their treatment feel a bit more luxe, see if you can make changes so that you can continue to offer them in a more cost-effective way. “I have heard salon owners declaring they’ll stop heating beds, using so many towels and serving luxury drinks in a bid to cut spend, but this could be an error,” explains Power. “Clients come to us for the full luxury, professional experience, and it’s not an area we should scrimp on.” Change, don’t stop There are many alternatives you can look into to ensure that your clients are still receiving the luxury experience they know and love. “If you’re finding washing and tumble dryer costs are eating up your profits, look for a local laundry who will do it for less,” suggests Power. “Use hot water bottles rather than plug-in bed heaters.” Don’t forget that as a business owner you have access to offers and bulk buying options the public don’t. “Bulk buy your coffee extras from places like Costco and Booker so you’re not rushing to the pricier supermarkets,” suggests Power. These wholesalers also provide cleaning supplies and other items that will be useful within your business, so the membership fee is usually worth it. Have your say No one understands how hard the current situation is on beauty businesses more than your peers – here’s what beauty salon owners and therapists had to say about making cuts to save money. “I’m not turning on the wax pot until I need it and using hot water bottles for heat instead of heating.” Carys Barnes, owner, Truffle Nails & Beauty, Wakefield “I have a full-time job that isn’t beauty related, but I’m now hoping to earn money on the side through being a mobile nail technician.” Katherine Sin, owner, Kana Pressed, Birmingham “I’m trying to be more cost conscious by not wasting products or consumables and am setting the heating on timers. I’m also shopping smart by bulk buying teas and coffees for the salon and cutting back on fresh flowers every week.” Chantal Chambers, owner, Scratch Nail and Beauty Salon, Stourbridge “We’re condensing down our opening hours to save on energy bills, but still providing the same therapist availability, just over five days instead of six.” Rachel Bourne, owner, Hi Therapies, Bournemouth “I have a smaller wax pot to heat up for facial waxing and underarms, then I only have to heat the big one up with I have a client in for a Hollywood.” Laura Kate Grodon, owner, Laura Kate Hair and Beauty, Derby “Only switching on things when I know I’m 100% using it that day, instead of ‘just in case’.” Clare Crierie, owner, Bare Spa and Beauty, Flintshire “I’m being savvy with electric and gas and cutting back on buying products for the sake of it, just to try them out.” Senay Listhrop, owner, Haus of Beauté, Leicestershire “Be sensible with ordering, set budgets and review your prices.” Sarah Hartley, beauty marketing coach, Blossom Tree Social MONEY-SAVINGS TIPS

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74 professionalbeauty.co.uk ACIDS SPECIAL Glycolic acid is a common skincare ingredient used in both in-salon treatments and homecare routines. Ellen Cummings speaks to the skincare experts about how it works, the concerns it can treat and the active ingredients it can be used alongside Spotlight on... GLYCOLIC acid, also known as HYDROACETIC acid or HYDROXYACETIC acid, is a 2-hydroxy mono-carboxylic acid – that is, ACETIC ACID with a HYDROXYLATED methyl group – Victoria Evans, education manager, Dermalogica UK How does glycolic acid work? Glycolic acid is an alpha hydroxy acid, or AHA, that’s naturally derived from sugarcane. However, it’s common for skincare formulas to contain a bio-identical molecule created in a lab rather than the naturally derived version. As a chemical exfoliant, glycolic acid breaks down the bonds of the stratum corneum. Gina Baker, skincare expert and trainer at Germaine de Capuccini, explains, “Skin cells are held together by positive and negative ionic charges. Glycolic acid can cancel some of that charge, which weakens bonds and loosens skin cells.” This helps to separate and dissolve the desmosomes (a kind of protein) which are the bonds that hold keratinocytes (old skin cells) together, explains Evans, adding, “This will speed up cell turnover.” As well as brightening skin on the surface, it can also work on a deeper level. “Glycolic acid has the lowest molecular weight of all the acids,” says Maria Naskos, national educator for Xpert Professional, which distributes skincare brand Dibi Milano. “This means it is small enough to penetrate the stratum corneum to travel into the deeper layers of the dermis, and can even make its way into hair follicles. Once in the hair follicle, the glycolic acid creates a process of desquamation and chemical exfoliation.” These actions mean it is great for supporting hydration, minimising lines and pores, reducing hyperpigmentation and fighting acne. How should it be used? Glycolic acid is particularly good in treatments focused on helping clients to achieve glowing skin. Naskos says, “A glycolic acid stimulator peel with a lower pH will act as an effective exfoliator to brighten and enhance skin without downtime. It can also be used in a higher percentage as a chemical peel.” Baker says this type of peel is ideal as a bolt-on in many facials, “particularly where product absorption is key”, adding, “It’s also a great treatment in a deep-cleansing back therapy where congestion is a concern.” Clients have a range of choices as to where they incorporate glycolic acid into their at-home routine, but it’s important that therapists educate them. Naskos explains, “Because it’s a very small molecule, it’s rather fast acting – therefore, clients should introduce it gradually to build up tolerance and avoid irritation.”

#PBLONDON @pro_beauty01 ProfessionalBeautyUK @pro_beauty 2023 GROW YOUR BUSINESS AT THE BIGGEST BEAUTY, SPA AND NAIL EVENT IN THE UK Register your interest for free tickets professionalbeauty.co.uk/London23 LONDON EXCEL LONDON 5-6 MARCH 2023

Entrance Policy: Professional Beauty London is open only to trade and professional visitors over the age of 14. Under no circumstances will prams, babies, pushchairs or buggies be permitted. No exceptions will be made.

78 professionalbeauty.co.uk TREATMENT NEWS Tried and tested… MG Skincare bespoke facial The lowdown: MG Skincare was founded by skin therapist Manuel Guerra, who has over 20 years’ experience in the industry. Having worked for some of the country’s leading skincare brands, Guerra decided to train in ingredient chemistry and create his own brand. He offers bespoke facials which use the MG Skincare range in addition to non-invasive technology and massage techniques to revitalise and support healthy skin. The experience: I visited Guerra at the MG Skincare Clinic near Tower Bridge, London. After a consultation where we discussed my skin concerns and goals, and my current routine, he began the facial by cleansing my skin with the Facial Oil Cleanser, followed by a second cleanse with Radiance Clays – a three-in-one cleanser, clay mask and exfoliator. Throughout these stages, Guerra used a steaming machine to keep my skin hydrated. After cleansing, he applied an acid exfoliant with his Recovering Oil Serum, which is designed to relieve redness and calm skin. This was massaged into my face and left on before Guerra carried out extractions. He then applied an oatmeal face mask to encourage my skin to heal and recover – both from the exfoliation as well as some breakouts I’d recently had. To complement this, the mask was left on while my skin was exposed to blue LED light for 20 minutes to target acne-causing bacteria, regulate sebum production and help to prevent future breakouts. After removing the mask, Guerra applied his Radiance Skin Toner to condition and hydrate, followed by the leave-on Lactic Acid Serum Gel, Vita C Serum and Radiance Serum. To finish the treatment, MG Skincare’s Medium Face Cream and Tinted SPF50 Primer were applied. The verdict: The personal and human touches in this treatment, including the tailored use of technology and the incorporation of massage, made it feel like a truly bespoke facial suited to me. The MG Skincare products felt wonderful and left my skin feeling brightened, hydrated and refreshed. Business benefits: The MG Skincare product range is available to purchase wholesale, offering businesses the opportunity to expand both their treatment and retail offering. Guerra also offers training for the bespoke facials which helps therapists to develop a better understanding of the skin and how to tailor treatments to clients. Tried by Ellen Cummings MG Skincare recommends charging from £75 to £100 per bespoke facial. 07814 663798 / mgskincare.co.uk Dermalogica x HydraFacial Treatment Dermalogica and HydraFacial have joined forces to create a skin treatment designed to offer both instant and long-term skin health results. The non-invasive, multi-step treatment features hydradermabrasion, a chemical peel, LED light therapy, extractions and delivery of antioxidants, hyaluronic acid and peptides. To customise the facial, it can also include lymphatic drainage to improve detoxification or a personalised booster to improve skin hydration and ageing. Having already introduced Pro Nanoneedling and Pro Microneedling to its portfolio of advanced treatments this year, Dermalogica’s new collaboration with aesthetic specialist HydraFacial is part of a move to reach a wider audience of clients seeking advanced technology-based facials. The brands recommend charging £120 for a 45-minute treatment or £300 for a course of four. 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk / 01788 572 007 hydrafacial.co.uk New face and body treatments blend tech and touch for a bespoke mix and impactful experience in the

79 professionalbeauty.co.uk TREATMENT NEWS Tried and tested… 111Skin bespoke facial The lowdown: Luxury doctor-led skincare brand 111 Skin, founded by Dr Yannis Alexandrides, offers bespoke treatments using its product range combined with the latest in beauty technology. The experience: Aesthetician Violeta Grigoriu began my treatment at 111 Skin’s treatment space at 1 Devonshire Place, London, with an in-depth consultation. We identified hormonal breakouts and dark circles under my eyes as my main concerns, and Grigoriu planned a customised treatment, featuring laser, a chemical peel and undereye masks for maximum results. As someone who had never experienced a peel before, I was worried about downtime – especially as I had an event three days later, but Grigoriu reassured me she would adapt the time the products were left on my skin to ensure only minimal flaking that I could easily remedy at home with manual exfoliation. Grown Alchemist treatments The cult skincare brand has launched its first ever professional spa treatments. Owned by L’Occitane, which also owns Elemis, Grown Alchemist is now being headed up in the UK by ex-Elemis general manager Harrison Gregory, launching its first treatments in the spas of Nobu Hotel, London, and The Lowry, Manchester, with plans for additional partnerships across the UK. Treatments include three facials, two shorter precision facials, a barbering ritual and five body treatments. The three longer facials are Defence, for city-dwellers, using an anti-pollution range; Regenerator – a signature facial that features cupping, cryo orbs and a sculpting massage; and Detox for deep cleansing. The 25-minute Precision Definition facials focus on facial massage with a choice of cheek and eye or neck and cheek. For body, the offering includes Rejuvenating Body Massage, focused on lymphatic drainage, myofascial release, foot reflexology and abdomen massage for gut health; Renewal Body Polish for full-body exfoliation; and Urban Destress, a back, lower leg and foot massage with cryo orbs to finish. There are also foot and hand massage protocols that can be done as a short treatment or add on. Grown Alchemist has partnered with Reviv to offer IV vitamin drips, delivered alongside any facial treatment by a doctor or nurse practitioner, with Reviv also creating an exclusive vitamin C and glutathione-rich blend for the brand. Recommended treatment prices will vary by location but Nobu London is charging from £85 for a weekday Precision Facial to £255 for a weekend Rejuvenating Body Massage grownalchemist.com The treatment began with a cleanse, which Grigoriu followed with a laser treatment using Alma Harmony technology to work to remove acne and impurities from within. The laser, which uses advanced fluorescence technology, had a warm feel and glided across my skin. Next up was the peel, with Grigoriu degreasing the skin with a prep wipe before applying a 40% mandelic acid peel, which she explained helps to accelerate cell turnover and reduce blemishes and dark patches, with 20% targeting the skin’s surface and 20% working beneath. While the peel was working, she applied 111Skin’s Illuminating Eye Mask to work on my dark circles. To minimise after-effects, Grigoriu neutralised the peel after just five minutes, allowing the ingredients to take effect without excessive shedding. For the final touches, Grigoriu targeted my undereye area with the 111Skin Eye Contour Gel and applied the brand’s Y Theorem Day Cream to boost antioxidant protection and hydration, finishing with SPF. The verdict: Immediately after the treatment I could see an improvement in the blemishes I wanted to target – which kept getting better as the days went on. The flaking was significantly less intense than I had imagined, and super easy to manage at home with hydrating products and gentle exfoliation. Business benefits: While it’s a premium treatment, the facial is great for clients who want to see results quickly and the combination of laser and peels makes you feel as though you’re getting more for your money. Tried by Lollie Hancock 111Skin recommends charging £465 for a customised treatment like this one. 111skin.co.uk

INSURANCE FOR YOU For therapists From £52.50 per year For nail techs From £39.50 per year For students From £20.00 per year DIRECT INSURANCE SOLUTIONS FOR THE BEAUTY INDUSTRY

INSURANCE FOR YOUR SALON Professional Beauty Direct is a trading name of InEvexco Ltd, 2022. InEvexco Limited is authorised and regulated by the FCA, registered number 579079 For beauty salon owners From £198.50 per year For nail salon owners From £156.61 per year Contact the team T: 0345 605 8670 E: info@professional beautydirect.co.uk Follow us PBDirectIns professionalbeautydirect www.professionalbeautydirect.co.uk

Sothys There are four sources of hyaluronic acid in Sothys’ new Hydra 4 line: patented 1055 Boletus Extract hyaluronic acid booster; HPM hyaluronic acid in both free and patch form; BPM low molecular weight hyaluronic acid (5 to 10 kDa); and micro hyaluronic acid with a molecular weight of less than 5 kDa to quickly penetrate and deliver an even more targeted regenerating action. The Hydra 4 line features a serum, mask and two creams. RRP: £48–72 01303 262666 sothys.com Dermalogica There are eight Christmas gift sets from Dermalogica this year, containing either full-size or travel-size products to suit all budgets. Among the standout gifts are The Brighter Skin Set, which comprises Biolumin-C Serum, Eye Gel and Gel Moisturiser; and the Cleanse & Glow Set, which has PreCleanse, Special Cleansing Gel and Daily Microfoliant. RRP: from £19 to £145 0800 917 7147 dermalogica.co.uk Mila d’Opiz Dermascience Stemcell7 Cream contains a complex of seven different plant stem cells to rejuvenate and hydrate medium to dry skin. The plant stem complex contains heritage apple for anti-ageing, grape for UV protection, comfrey for cell renewal, hydrating Alpine rose, argan for smoothing, and patented ingredients PhytoCellTec Goji to boost collagen and elastin production and Nunatak to repair environmental damage. Trade: £39 for 50ml 020 3514 9860 (Sunaura) miladopiz.co.uk hydro boost Products to hydrate and soothe are among the latest launches, as well as more gift sets for your Christmas displays 82 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEW PRODUCTS

83 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEW PRODUCTS Phytomer This Christmas, Phytomer has three gift sets: Hydration, Supreme Youth and Radiance. The Hydration Beauty Ritual set features Hydra Original moisturising melting cream and Hydrasea creamy mask with weaving algae. Supreme Youth Beauty pairs the anti-ageing Pionnière XMF supreme cream with Pionnière XMF Exfoliating Mask-to-Oil, while Radiance Beauty Ritual has Cyfolia Organic hydra-comforting radiance cream and Organic Radiance Moisturising Mask. Trade: £27.90 to £79.43 01892 750850 phytomer.co.uk Lecenté The new collections from Lecenté feature eight metallic Create Gel Colours, five Multi Glitz Glitters and eight foils. The metallic gels include red Shopahilic, blue Selfie, russet Pumpkin Spice, bright purple Night Out, green Fashionista, tan Frappe, dark Espresso and vanilla Brunchin. Meanwhile, the glitters are all multi-tonal and the foils range from animal print to bold smoky-effect designs. Trade: £11.99 per gel colour; £3.99 each for foils and glitters 0844 800 3314 lecente.com Bio-Therapeutic The new Hyaluronic Repair Face Masque is a copper-infused gel masque that delivers skin nourishment while also acting as a conductive medium for advanced microcurrent services. It includes a complex of three peptides to support skin health and help reduce signs of premature ageing. The gel sheet can be used alone in a traditional facial, or together with the Bio-Ultimate Platinum or bt-nano microcurrent technology. Trade: £85.55 07575 881186 bio-therapeutic.online RevitaLash The new Advanced Sensitive Eyelash Conditioner is formulated for those with increased sensitivity around the eye area, featuring a plant-based liposomal delivery system designed to aid in stable, slowrelease ingredient absorption into the eyelash hairs. It also features myristoyl pentapeptide-17, a five-amino-acid powerful peptide and antioxidant to protect them from breakage; rice protein to increase flexibility and volume; and aloe vera to soothe. RRP: £99 for 2ml 0333 014 2434 skinbrands.co.uk

Mii Mii has two new nail collections for autumn and Christmas. The autumnal Nature Mosaic collection features sparkly magenta Bonfire Crackle, shimmery Green Illusion, warm Shades of Grey, dark green Rich Meadow, shimmery burgundy Darker Days and charcoal Night Frost. Meanwhile, Christmas collection Crowning Glory (pictured) has six festive shades: shimmery cranberry Ruby Shine, glitzy gold Hidden Treasure, metallic silver Diamond Chip, shimmery blue Family Heirloom, glittery holly green Emerald Studded, and jet black Onyx. Trade: £6.75 for 14ml; £15.50 for a 9ml 3 pack; £13.50 per Statement Gel Polish 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com Gellux The Colour Me Crazy AW22 collection from Gellux features eight new shades in a cool seasonal colour palette. From soft nudes and deep berry shades to fiery orange and a full gold glitter, the collection is designed to create stunning nail looks through autumn and winter. The eight shades – Bitten Berry, Much Drama, All Fired Up, All the Rage, Wicked Green, Velvet Vixen, Cupids Kiss and How Bizarre – can be cured with both UV and LED lamps. Trade: £11.97 each 020 8573 9907 salonsystem.com Serumology The new +serumology Foot Serum and +serumology Hand Serum have been designed to complement each other and soothe the skin during colder weather. The Foot Serum uses pumpkin, bergamot and ivy to hydrate and soothe, while the Hand Serum features watermelon, pomegranate, kiwi and organic lime oil to deeply moisturise. Trade: £5.95 each 01273 323232 (BeautyPro) maskology.co.uk Pure Nails Pure Nails’ Cosmic Collection features six shades named after the planets: Mars, a burnt orange and brown with rainbow glitter; Mercury, a vibrant blue with iridescent glitter; Neptune, a reflective sea-green with turquoise glitter; off-black with reflective glitter Jupiter; deep purple-burgundy with iridescent glitter Venus; and Saturn, a rich emerald with rainbow sparkles. Trade: £5.95 01634 671122 purenails.co.uk 84 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEW PRODUCTS

85 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEW PRODUCTS Clarins Clarins’s best-selling Beauty Flash Balm has undergone updates to make the product more natural. Launching as part of the Beauty Flash Collection, alongside the new Beauty Flash Peel and Resculpting Flash Roller, the balm’s new plant formula contains a cocktail of powerful ingredients, 96% of which are sourced from natural origin. The Peel is a chemical exfoliant, featuring glycolic and salicylic acids to accelerate skin regeneration, and the Roller is a two-in-one facial massage device, working with the products to contour and boost radiance. RRP: Balm £34; Peel £38; Roller £37 01279 967776 clarins.co.uk The Organic Pharmacy The new Advanced Firming HCC7 Ampoules contain an interactive blend of hyaluronic acid, biomarine collagen and stabilised vitamin C that work in synergy to hydrate and firm skin, restoring the moisture barrier and strengthening it against future dehydration. The seven-day programme is proven to increase moisturisation by 25.3% and elasticity by 14.8%. Also new are eight Christmas gift sets for different concerns: Brighten & Glow, Intense Moisture Boost, Overnight Repair, Renew & Smooth, Rose Diamond, Clear, Rejuvenating, and Essential. RRP: £70 for ampoules, £59 to £95 for gift sets 0844 800 8399 theorganicpharmacy.com Spongellé Arriving just in time for Christmas are Spongelle’s Holiday Stars and Holiday Ornament Collections. Holiday Ornament has six fragranced body-wash-infused buffers to cleanse, exfoliate, nourish, and massage. Available individually or in gift sets of three, the fragrances are champagne Merry, peppermint Peace on Earth, pomegranate Naughty or Nice, quince blossom Let it Snow, sugar plum Joy, and winter rose Believe. The Holiday Stars are star-shaped buffers with holidayinspired fragrances: lychee ice Peace, vanilla bloom Noel, jasmine Snow, and snow flower Love. The Holiday Stars are also available individually or in gifts sets, each containing two products. Trade: Holiday Ornaments are £4.75 each or £14 for gift sets; Holiday Stars are £5 each or £10 for gift sets 0345 217 1360 gerrardinternational.com Orly The Futurism collection from Orly features six metallic shades in frosted blues, greens and purples, celebrating dynamic energy. The shades – Fluidity, Ascension, Urban Landscape, Dynamism, Forward Momentum and Industrial Playground – are available in both nail lacquer and GelFX formulas, with patented Gripper Cap for ease of use, and Orly’s 600 bristle Genius Brush, designed to perfectly fit the cuticle. Trade: from £6.50 for nail lacquer to £97.50 for display sets 01827 280080 (Grafton International) graftons.co.uk

Matis Paris Matis has two skincare launches this month as part of its Authentik range – Balm Remover and Fundamental Mask. Balm Remover combines camellia oil and macadamia oil, known for their emollient properties to gently remove make-up on the face and the eyes. Fundamental Mask, for dehydrated and undernourished skin, is formulated with hyaluronic acid and rich shea butter and provides synergistic hydrating and nourishing actions. Trade: balm £14.22; mask £19.13 0191 510 5003 frenchbeautyexpert.co.uk Dibi Milano Dibi Milano’s Christmas offerings include a selection of coffrets along with a beauty advent calendar. The four coffret sets are Age Method, Filler Code, Hydra and Pro Cell (pictured). Each includes curated two-piece, full-size Dibi Milano products for all skin types, packaged in festive gift boxes, while the My Skin Beauty Advent Calendar contains 24 mini-sized products from across the brand’s collections. Trade: £36 to £65 020 3878 4539 xpertprofessional.ie Neom Organics Neom’s Christmas offerings feature four candle sets, five stocking fillers, four kits and a “build your own” option with lucky dip drawstring bags, pick ‘n’ mix crackers and pick ‘n’ mix essential oil blends. The Wellbeing Extravaganza kit (pictured) contains a trio of products to help clients sleep, de-stress and lift their mood – the Perfect Night’s Sleep Mist, Real Luxury Magnesium Body Butter and Happiness Scented Candle. RRP: from £5 for the stocking fillers; from £20 for the candles; and from £38 for the kits neomorganics.com Novalash NovaLash Aftercare Bundle has been created to help boost festive season retail profits, offering a 20% discount compared to the price of buying the products individually. Each Aftercare Bundle contains 10 pots of Cleanlash pads to cleanse and care for extensions, five Lashwands to brush lashes on the go, five mascaras to style lashes between infills, and five Aftercare Kits (each containing Cleanlash, mascara and a lash brush). Trade: £246 0131 677 4955 novalash.co.uk 86 professionalbeauty.co.uk NEW PRODUCTS

87 professionalbeauty.co.uk CLASSIFIED CALL NUR TANYERI on 020 7349 4796 or email [emailprotected] SALON SUPPLIES & EQUIPMENT FOR SALE WANT TO EARN MONEY IN FULL OR PART TIME WORK ON DATES THAT WORK FOR YOU? Are you passionate about what skincare you use? Could you proactively sell luxury skincare? Do you like working in the top stores in London? Are you driven by results? We are a brand management company looking for experienced and /or enthusiastic freelancers to work in the top London luxury department stores, representing new and exciting skincare and cosmetic brands. Full or part time on dates that suit you. Full training given by brand and by store. Day rate of £100 and you will be paid within a 2 week cycle, once your invoice is approved. Suitable candidates should be: l Well groomed l Bubbly personality l Great people skills l Enthusiastic and passionate about clean organic planet friendly products l Punctual and reliable Previous retail experience a plus, but not essential. If this is you, please send your CV’s to Annie Bruce at [emailprotected]

88 professionalbeauty.co.uk Q&A Why did you decide to rebrand and relaunch your classic Hara brand? “The brand has been around for more than 50 years. We started with wax, then about 30 years ago we introduced our lash and brow tint, and in 2017 we launched gel polish. “We wanted to do a rebrand because the packaging was looking a bit tired. We really want to raise the profile of the brand. As a business we’ve had Hara for more than 50 years, but we’ve really kept it in house, like a closely guarded secret. “It was time for a rebrand, because the products are good and have an incredibly loyal following, but the outside didn’t really look as good as the inside. We have great aspirations to push the brand forward. To do that, not only does it have to look good, but it also has to be appropriate for 2022.” Will there be any new products launching into the Hara range? “When we relaunch, we’ll be adding some new stripless waxes to the range and some new equipment. We’re launching a new wax heater, as well as an extra colour and developer for lash and brow. Then later, we’ll be adding lash lift and brow lamination. “Gel polish is also having a complete overhaul. Our gel polish is a really goodvalue brand, but it only ever had about 39 core colours, which is not enough for a nail tech. So, we hope to bring out extra colours with seasonal launches, give the bottle a completely new look and make the range hema free. “We are also looking to move into skincare – not a full-service skincare range, but I do think that we might have some small bespoke treatment packages that people could add into their existing skincare ranges in salon or freelance. We could end up with a peeling system within the range.” How did the difficult trading period over the last two years impact Aston and Fincher? “Without wanting to blow our own trumpet, because lots of people suffered, Aston and Fincher has had a good few years. Covid was terrible; we kept our website open, but our stores had to close. However, the hairdressing industry bounced back incredibly for us. Beauty took a bit longer to recover but is coming back strong. “I think we can put it down to the fact that we have a really good head of buying and product manager who both made sure we had everything we needed throughout the pandemic in stock. So, where other suppliers didn’t have stock of PPE or the popular lines that had boomed through lockdown, we had lots. “Once salons were reopening and experiencing busy periods, we were able to fulfil those stock needs. We definitely picked up new business through the pandemic.” What trends have you seen emerge post-pandemic? “In wholesale, we traditionally haven’t sold the high-end electrical equipment, the body and facial machines, but I see a huge switch towards that in the beauty industry now. “I was also surprised that tanning picked up well, because so many people learnt to tan themselves at home during lockdowns, so I wasn’t sure whether tanning would recover but it has. It’s the same with nails, which also bounced back really strongly.” Time of change Aston and Fincher’s national beauty manager Claire Lebrun tells us about the complete rebrand of Hara and how the pandemic has influenced industry trends

www.professionalbeauty.co.uk/subscribe Join us as a member for the latest news, insight, inspiration and valuable networking opportunities all year round. Your membership will include: Monthly direct debits now available from just £3 per month Annual print and digital subscription VIP Access to lounges at Professional Beauty Shows* Plus much, much more Find us on @pro_beauty pro_beauty01 ProfessionalBeautyUK professionalbeauty01 Professional Beauty UK BECOME A MEMBER OF THE UK’S LEADING MAGAZINE FOR THE PROFESSIONAL BEAUTY, NAIL AND SPA INDUSTRIES *minimum 12 month required SCAN TO SUBSCRIBE NOVEMBER 2022 FACIAL AESTHETIC DEVICES • SKIN CYCLING • MONEY-SAVING TIPS • GLYCOLIC ACID NEEDLE FREE THE TECH ALTERNATIVES TO SURGERY ACID TEST EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GLYCOLIC SALON OWNERS SHARE THEIR TIPS FOR REDUCING COSTS AND ENERGY USE M cut ake the AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS November 2022 | professionalbeauty.co.uk From just £3 per month NOVEMBER 2022 FACIAL AESTHETIC DEVICES • SKIN CYCLING • MONEY-SAVING TIPS • GLYCOLIC ACID NEEDLE FREE THE TECH ALTERNATIVES TO SURGERY ACID TEST EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW ABOUT GLYCOLIC SALON OWNERS SHARE THEIR TIPS FOR REDUCING COSTS AND ENERGY USE cut Make the AT THE HEART OF THE SPA AND SALON BUSINESS November 2022 | professionalbeauty.co.uk


Professional Beauty - Flip eBook Pages 51-92 (2025)

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